Difference between revisions of "3D Printers"

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(I will document settings that work once I find settings that work.)
 
 
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ssh:c has several 3D printers for use by members.
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{{Marked For Deletion}}
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== Isis3D ==
  
= Functional =
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Printer status as of 10/18/2017:
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{| class="wikitable"
 +
|-
 +
! # !! Name !! Extruder 1 !! Extruder 2 !! Heated Bed !! X Endstop !! Y Endstop !! Z Endstop !! Bed Level !! LCD !! SD Reader !! Auto-level !! Nozzle Heights !! Calibration !! Notes
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|-
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| 1 || Anna || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✖  || ✔ || ✔ || ? || ✖  || ✖  || 
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|-
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| 2 || Natalie || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✖  || ✔ || ✔ || ✖ || ✖  || ✖  || 
 +
|-
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| 3 || Mary || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✖  || ✔ || ✔ || ✖  || ✖  || ✖  || In custody of [[User:ntaluzek|N. Taluzek]].
 +
|-
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| 4 || Sparky || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✖  || ✔ || ✔ || ✖ || ✖  || ✖  || In custody of [[User:ntaluzek|N. Taluzek]]
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|}
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''Printers have labels attached to them for identification''
  
== Makerbot Cupcake ==
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Good stuff to document in time:
 +
# Identifying and clearing jammed extruders
 +
# Manually leveling the bed
 +
# Setting up a new computer for 3D printing
 +
# Optimal Slicer settings
  
The Makerbot Cupcake is fitted with a heated build platform. The recommended software for it is [http://www.replicat.org ReplicatorG]. Due to the fact that the Cupcake is relatively old, the latest version of Skeinforge that ships with ReplicatorG 40 doesn't generate proper G-code for it. You can use the included Skeinforge 35, which comes with profiles for the Cupcake, or try your hand at the included Slic3r build.
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== UP! Mini ==
  
Note that the end stops of the machine are not currently calibrated. That means that if you run the build plate to the extents of the X, Y, or Z axes you will damage the machine. So don't do that.
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Printer status as of 1/3/2018:  <br />
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{| class="wikitable"
 +
|-
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! Name !! Status !! Notes
 +
|-
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| Animal || OK || Some [https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#stringing-or-oozing oozing issues] but otherwise OK
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|-
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| Kermit || BAD|| <del>Prints are very garbled</del> Currently not powering up.
 +
|-
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| Dark Helmet || ? || ...
 +
|}
  
The Cupcake in the space is currently fitted with a Plastruder Mk4, which does not have very good control over fine details or the start and stop of flow. This can be mitigated somewhat by using Skeinforge's Oozebane settings to preemptively start and stop the extruder. A stepper-based extruder is a planned upgrade.
 
  
=== Recommended Settings ===
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Several original UP! Minis were donated by Maker Lab at Harold Washington Public Library in October 2017. 3 of them should be fully functional; 2 are incomplete and are for parts/hacking; there may be more on the way. The machines are being researched and documented.
  
Taken from the archived Makerbot Wiki and not yet tested:
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Notes:
 
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* The UP! Mini was created by PP3P, which was later acquired by Tiertime. Tiertime continues to provide support for the original UP! Mini, but you are likely to encounter both names, as well as UP3D.
==== For printing ABS: ====
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* There are two software packages out there that control the printer. Installing both is recommended:
* Analyze
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** The older UP! software has a traditional Windows interface and includes 3D files (in a proprietary UP format) for some plastic replacement parts for the printer (such as extruder mountings and spool holder). It assumes that you print with UP! brand ABS and doesn't allow you to change things like filament temperature without 3rd party hacks. The software is no longer developed and stops at version 2.18.
* Behold
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** The newer UP Studio software has a more modern, simplistic Metro Windows interface. It lacks some of the features of the older software, but allows you to adjust things like filament temperature settings (if you register an account with Tiertime). It's being continuously developed and is currently at version 2.0+.
: Activate Behold: no
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* <s>Extruder lights don't work on some machines for some reason. probably firmware related.</s> All but one machine run the correct firmware, which doesn't switch the lights automatically. The lights are switched by very slowly double-pressing the power button on them. The machine with the wrong firmware turns the lights on with a single press and dims them after a minute.
* Skeinview
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* This is a good filament guide for the Mini - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2593558
: Activate Skeinview: yes
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* This wedge is suggested to make the extruder assembly not fall out - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2630148
: Draw Arrows: yes
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* Here is a good teardown of the printer, in case we decide to hack the non-functioning ones - https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/3d-printer-teardown-%27take-two%27-the-up-mini-3d-printer-by-pp3dp/
: Go Around Extruder Off Travel: no
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* Here is a 3rd party CPU option - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1655144/#files
: Pixels over Extrusion Width (ratio): 10.0
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* Advantage: a stock Mini in working order prints (UP brand) ABS fairly reliably with UP software.
: Screen Horizontal Inset (pixels): 100
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* Disadvantages:
: Screen Vertical Inset (pixels): 100
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** Requires a PC connected via USB to control print jobs. Tiertime offers a [https://up-3d-printer-store-tiertime.myshopify.com/collections/3d-printer-parts/products/big-sale-up-mini-cpu-upgrade-kit-by-tiertime $250 CPU upgrade] which brings WiFi and a few other features to the printer. 3D party CPU replacements are also available.
* Vectorwrite
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** Works best with ABS, especially its own brand. Getting it to work well with other filament is TBD.
: Activate Vectorwrite: no
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** Maximum print volume is 12x12x12cm. Layers with a large surface area tend to fail due to delamination.
* Statistic
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** Extruder is magnetically attached to the X-Y gantry. It makes it easy to remove for servicing and reduces likelihood of damage, but also makes the extruder easy to misalign. 3D party extruder assemblies exist
: Activate Statistic: yes
 
: Print Statistics: yes
 
: Save Statistics: no
 
* Carve
 
: Extrusion Width over Thickness (ratio): 1.9
 
: Import Coarseness (ratio): 1.0
 
: Mesh Type: Correct Mesh
 
: Infill Bridge Thickness over Layer Thickness (ratio): 1.0
 
: Infill Bridge Width over Extrusion Width (ratio): 1.0
 
: Infill in Direction of Bridges: yes
 
: Layer Thickness (mm): 0.372
 
: Layer Thickness over Precision (ratio): 10.0
 
* Clip
 
: Activate Clip: yes
 
: Clip Over Extrusion Width (ratio): 0.18
 
* Comb
 
: Activate Comb: yes
 
: Arrival Inset Follow Distance over Extrusion Width (ratio): 3.0
 
: Jitter Over Extrusion Width (ratio): 10.0
 
: Minimum Perimeter Departure Distance over Extrusion Width (ratio): 5.0
 
* Cool
 
: Activate Cool: no
 
* Export
 
: Activate Export: yes
 
: Also Send Output To: blank
 
: Delete Comments: no
 
: Delete M110 Gcode Line: yes
 
: Export Operations: Do Not Change Output
 
: File Extension: gcode
 
* Fill
 
: Diaphragm Period (layers): 999999*
 
: Diaghragm Thickness (layers): 0
 
: Extra Shells on Alternating Solid Layers (layers): 1
 
: Extra Shells on Base (layers): 1
 
: Extra Shells on Sparse Layers (layers): 1
 
: Grid Extra Overlap (ratio): 0.001
 
: Grid Junction Separation Band Height (layers): 10
 
: Grid Junction Separation over Octogon Radius At End (ratio): 0.0
 
: Grid Junction Separation over Octogon Radius At Middle (ratio): 0.0
 
: Infill Begin Rotation (degrees): 45.0
 
: Infill Begin Rotation Repeat (layers): 1
 
: Infill Solidity (ratio): 0.1
 
: Infill Odd Layer Extra Rotation (degrees): 90.0
 
: Infill Pattern: Grid Rectangular
 
: Interior Infill Density over Exterior Density (ratio): 0.9
 
: Outside Extruded First: yes
 
: Solid Surface Thickness (layers): 2
 
* Fillet
 
: Activate Fillet: yes
 
: Fillet Procedure Choice: Bevel
 
: Corner Feedrate over Operating Feedrate (ratio): 1.0
 
: Fillet Radius over Extrusion Width (ratio): 0.35
 
: Reversal Slowdown Distance over Extrusion Width (ratio): 0.5
 
: Use Intermediate Feedrate in Corners: no
 
* Hop
 
: Activate Hop: no
 
* Inset
 
: Extrusion Perimeter Width over Thickness (ratio): 1.8
 
: Infill Perimeter Overlap (ratio): 0.1
 
: Infill Perimeter Overlap Method of Calculation: Calculate Overlap from Perimeter and Infill
 
: Start at Home: yes
 
* Material
 
: Listbox: ABS
 
* Multiply
 
: Activate Multiply: no
 
* Oozebane
 
: Activate Oozebane: yes
 
: After Startup Distance (mm): 0.275
 
: Early Shutdown Distance (mm): 0.2
 
: Early Startup Distance Constant (mm): 20.0
 
: Early Startup Maximum Distance (mm): 5.25
 
: First Early Startup Distance (mm): 20.0
 
: Minimum Distance for Early Startup (mm): 0.01
 
: Minimum Distance for Early Shutdown (mm): 1.0
 
: Slowdown Startup Steps (positive integer): 1
 
* Polyfile
 
: Directory or File Choice: Execute File
 
* Raft
 
: Activate Raft: no
 
* Speed
 
: Activate Speed: yes
 
: Bridge Feedrate Multiplier (ratio): 1.0
 
: Extrusion Diameter over Thickness (ratio): 1.3
 
: Feedrate (mm/s): 26.5
 
: Flowrate Choice: PWM Setting
 
: Orbital Feedrate over Operating Feedrate (ratio): 1.0
 
: Perimeter Feedrate over Operating Feedrate (ratio): 1.0
 
: Perimeter Flowrate over Operating Flowrate (ratio): 1.0
 
: Support Flowrate over Operating Flowrate (ratio): 1.0
 
: Travel Feedrate (mm/s): 55.0
 
* Stretch
 
: Description
 
Compensate for holes that are smaller than they should be.
 
: Settings
 
: Activate Stretch: no
 
* Tower
 
: Activate Tower: no
 
* Unpause
 
: Activate Unpause: no
 
* Wipe
 
: Activate Wipe: no
 
 
 
==== For printing PLA ====
 
TODO: [[User:Mdonahue]] needs to upload what he's got after he's played with Oozebane settings.
 
 
 
= Nonfunctional =
 
 
 
2x Reprap Prusa; work ongoing. (Currently needing calibration and final electronics connections for one, full assembly for the second.)
 

Latest revision as of 23:40, 26 January 2022

Delete-icon.png This article has been Marked For Deletion.
Please update articles that link to this, and prepare for this page to not exist, anymore!

Isis3D

Printer status as of 10/18/2017:

# Name Extruder 1 Extruder 2 Heated Bed X Endstop Y Endstop Z Endstop Bed Level LCD SD Reader Auto-level Nozzle Heights Calibration Notes
1 Anna ?
2 Natalie
3 Mary In custody of N. Taluzek.
4 Sparky In custody of N. Taluzek

Printers have labels attached to them for identification

Good stuff to document in time:

  1. Identifying and clearing jammed extruders
  2. Manually leveling the bed
  3. Setting up a new computer for 3D printing
  4. Optimal Slicer settings

UP! Mini

Printer status as of 1/3/2018:

Name Status Notes
Animal OK Some oozing issues but otherwise OK
Kermit BAD Prints are very garbled Currently not powering up.
Dark Helmet ? ...


Several original UP! Minis were donated by Maker Lab at Harold Washington Public Library in October 2017. 3 of them should be fully functional; 2 are incomplete and are for parts/hacking; there may be more on the way. The machines are being researched and documented.

Notes:

  • The UP! Mini was created by PP3P, which was later acquired by Tiertime. Tiertime continues to provide support for the original UP! Mini, but you are likely to encounter both names, as well as UP3D.
  • There are two software packages out there that control the printer. Installing both is recommended:
    • The older UP! software has a traditional Windows interface and includes 3D files (in a proprietary UP format) for some plastic replacement parts for the printer (such as extruder mountings and spool holder). It assumes that you print with UP! brand ABS and doesn't allow you to change things like filament temperature without 3rd party hacks. The software is no longer developed and stops at version 2.18.
    • The newer UP Studio software has a more modern, simplistic Metro Windows interface. It lacks some of the features of the older software, but allows you to adjust things like filament temperature settings (if you register an account with Tiertime). It's being continuously developed and is currently at version 2.0+.
  • Extruder lights don't work on some machines for some reason. probably firmware related. All but one machine run the correct firmware, which doesn't switch the lights automatically. The lights are switched by very slowly double-pressing the power button on them. The machine with the wrong firmware turns the lights on with a single press and dims them after a minute.
  • This is a good filament guide for the Mini - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2593558
  • This wedge is suggested to make the extruder assembly not fall out - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2630148
  • Here is a good teardown of the printer, in case we decide to hack the non-functioning ones - https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/3d-printer-teardown-%27take-two%27-the-up-mini-3d-printer-by-pp3dp/
  • Here is a 3rd party CPU option - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1655144/#files
  • Advantage: a stock Mini in working order prints (UP brand) ABS fairly reliably with UP software.
  • Disadvantages:
    • Requires a PC connected via USB to control print jobs. Tiertime offers a $250 CPU upgrade which brings WiFi and a few other features to the printer. 3D party CPU replacements are also available.
    • Works best with ABS, especially its own brand. Getting it to work well with other filament is TBD.
    • Maximum print volume is 12x12x12cm. Layers with a large surface area tend to fail due to delamination.
    • Extruder is magnetically attached to the X-Y gantry. It makes it easy to remove for servicing and reduces likelihood of damage, but also makes the extruder easy to misalign. 3D party extruder assemblies exist