Difference between revisions of "3D Printers"

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(summarize the State of the Cupcake)
 
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ssh:c has several 3D printers for use by members.
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{{Marked For Deletion}}
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== Isis3D ==
  
= Reprap Prusa =
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Printer status as of 10/18/2017:
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{| class="wikitable"
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|-
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! # !! Name !! Extruder 1 !! Extruder 2 !! Heated Bed !! X Endstop !! Y Endstop !! Z Endstop !! Bed Level !! LCD !! SD Reader !! Auto-level !! Nozzle Heights !! Calibration !! Notes
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|-
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| 1 || Anna || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✖  || ✔ || ✔ || ? || ✖  || ✖  || 
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|-
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| 2 || Natalie || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✖  || ✔ || ✔ || ✖ || ✖  || ✖  || 
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|-
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| 3 || Mary || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✖  || ✔ || ✔ || ✖  || ✖  || ✖  || In custody of [[User:ntaluzek|N. Taluzek]].
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|-
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| 4 || Sparky || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✔ || ✖  || ✔ || ✔ || ✖ || ✖  || ✖  || In custody of [[User:ntaluzek|N. Taluzek]]
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|}
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''Printers have labels attached to them for identification''
  
The space has one Reprap Prusa i2 in a functional state.
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Good stuff to document in time:
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# Identifying and clearing jammed extruders
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# Manually leveling the bed
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# Setting up a new computer for 3D printing
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# Optimal Slicer settings
  
This Prusa has a geared, stepper-based extruder, a non-heated build plate, and uses an Azteeg X3 as a controller. Its nozzle width is currently .5mm.
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== UP! Mini ==
  
The lack of heated build plate means that prints in ABS plastic will not turn out well, with curling and other issues, so the printer is recommended for PLA only.
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Printer status as of 1/3/2018:  <br />
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{| class="wikitable"
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|-
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! Name !! Status !! Notes
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|-
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| Animal || OK || Some [https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#stringing-or-oozing oozing issues] but otherwise OK
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|-
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| Kermit || BAD|| <del>Prints are very garbled</del> Currently not powering up.
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|-
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| Dark Helmet || ? || ...
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|}
  
The software that seems to work best is [http://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-host/ Repetier-Host], though [http://reprap.org/wiki/Printrun Printrun] is also usable. The slicer most commonly used is Slic3r.
 
  
TODO: Post detailed configs for getting prints out of Repetier-Host/Slic3r, detail some of its features, include more pictures. Once standalone 3D print server exists, document it.
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Several original UP! Minis were donated by Maker Lab at Harold Washington Public Library in October 2017. 3 of them should be fully functional; 2 are incomplete and are for parts/hacking; there may be more on the way. The machines are being researched and documented.  
  
= Makerbot Cupcake =
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Notes:
 
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* The UP! Mini was created by PP3P, which was later acquired by Tiertime. Tiertime continues to provide support for the original UP! Mini, but you are likely to encounter both names, as well as UP3D.
The Makerbot Cupcake is fitted with a heated build platform suitable for printing ABS or PLA plastic. Work is currently underway to retrofit it with a stepper extruder and generally allow it to be better at printing. It is currently nonfunctional.
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* There are two software packages out there that control the printer. Installing both is recommended:
 
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** The older UP! software has a traditional Windows interface and includes 3D files (in a proprietary UP format) for some plastic replacement parts for the printer (such as extruder mountings and spool holder). It assumes that you print with UP! brand ABS and doesn't allow you to change things like filament temperature without 3rd party hacks. The software is no longer developed and stops at version 2.18.
TODO:
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** The newer UP Studio software has a more modern, simplistic Metro Windows interface. It lacks some of the features of the older software, but allows you to adjust things like filament temperature settings (if you register an account with Tiertime). It's being continuously developed and is currently at version 2.0+.
* Solder up new wire for the hot end's heater resistor
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* <s>Extruder lights don't work on some machines for some reason. probably firmware related.</s> All but one machine run the correct firmware, which doesn't switch the lights automatically. The lights are switched by very slowly double-pressing the power button on them. The machine with the wrong firmware turns the lights on with a single press and dims them after a minute.
* Solder wire for the heated bed
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* This is a good filament guide for the Mini - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2593558
* Kapton tape the thermistor into place on the hot end
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* This wedge is suggested to make the extruder assembly not fall out - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2630148
* Calibrate E steps
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* Here is a good teardown of the printer, in case we decide to hack the non-functioning ones - https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/3d-printer-teardown-%27take-two%27-the-up-mini-3d-printer-by-pp3dp/
* Set up the Z endstop
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* Here is a 3rd party CPU option - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1655144/#files
* Test the heated bed and hot end
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* Advantage: a stock Mini in working order prints (UP brand) ABS fairly reliably with UP software.
 
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* Disadvantages:
= Reprap Prusa 2 =
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** Requires a PC connected via USB to control print jobs. Tiertime offers a [https://up-3d-printer-store-tiertime.myshopify.com/collections/3d-printer-parts/products/big-sale-up-mini-cpu-upgrade-kit-by-tiertime $250 CPU upgrade] which brings WiFi and a few other features to the printer. 3D party CPU replacements are also available.
 
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** Works best with ABS, especially its own brand. Getting it to work well with other filament is TBD.
The second Prusa in the space needs much more work. The frame needs to be properly sized and tightened, the bed, carriages, and motors need to be installed, the extruder needs to be assembled, etc. It may be considered for parts scavenging instead of building out.
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** Maximum print volume is 12x12x12cm. Layers with a large surface area tend to fail due to delamination.
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** Extruder is magnetically attached to the X-Y gantry. It makes it easy to remove for servicing and reduces likelihood of damage, but also makes the extruder easy to misalign. 3D party extruder assemblies exist

Latest revision as of 23:40, 26 January 2022

Delete-icon.png This article has been Marked For Deletion.
Please update articles that link to this, and prepare for this page to not exist, anymore!

Isis3D

Printer status as of 10/18/2017:

# Name Extruder 1 Extruder 2 Heated Bed X Endstop Y Endstop Z Endstop Bed Level LCD SD Reader Auto-level Nozzle Heights Calibration Notes
1 Anna ?
2 Natalie
3 Mary In custody of N. Taluzek.
4 Sparky In custody of N. Taluzek

Printers have labels attached to them for identification

Good stuff to document in time:

  1. Identifying and clearing jammed extruders
  2. Manually leveling the bed
  3. Setting up a new computer for 3D printing
  4. Optimal Slicer settings

UP! Mini

Printer status as of 1/3/2018:

Name Status Notes
Animal OK Some oozing issues but otherwise OK
Kermit BAD Prints are very garbled Currently not powering up.
Dark Helmet ? ...


Several original UP! Minis were donated by Maker Lab at Harold Washington Public Library in October 2017. 3 of them should be fully functional; 2 are incomplete and are for parts/hacking; there may be more on the way. The machines are being researched and documented.

Notes:

  • The UP! Mini was created by PP3P, which was later acquired by Tiertime. Tiertime continues to provide support for the original UP! Mini, but you are likely to encounter both names, as well as UP3D.
  • There are two software packages out there that control the printer. Installing both is recommended:
    • The older UP! software has a traditional Windows interface and includes 3D files (in a proprietary UP format) for some plastic replacement parts for the printer (such as extruder mountings and spool holder). It assumes that you print with UP! brand ABS and doesn't allow you to change things like filament temperature without 3rd party hacks. The software is no longer developed and stops at version 2.18.
    • The newer UP Studio software has a more modern, simplistic Metro Windows interface. It lacks some of the features of the older software, but allows you to adjust things like filament temperature settings (if you register an account with Tiertime). It's being continuously developed and is currently at version 2.0+.
  • Extruder lights don't work on some machines for some reason. probably firmware related. All but one machine run the correct firmware, which doesn't switch the lights automatically. The lights are switched by very slowly double-pressing the power button on them. The machine with the wrong firmware turns the lights on with a single press and dims them after a minute.
  • This is a good filament guide for the Mini - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2593558
  • This wedge is suggested to make the extruder assembly not fall out - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2630148
  • Here is a good teardown of the printer, in case we decide to hack the non-functioning ones - https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/3d-printer-teardown-%27take-two%27-the-up-mini-3d-printer-by-pp3dp/
  • Here is a 3rd party CPU option - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1655144/#files
  • Advantage: a stock Mini in working order prints (UP brand) ABS fairly reliably with UP software.
  • Disadvantages:
    • Requires a PC connected via USB to control print jobs. Tiertime offers a $250 CPU upgrade which brings WiFi and a few other features to the printer. 3D party CPU replacements are also available.
    • Works best with ABS, especially its own brand. Getting it to work well with other filament is TBD.
    • Maximum print volume is 12x12x12cm. Layers with a large surface area tend to fail due to delamination.
    • Extruder is magnetically attached to the X-Y gantry. It makes it easy to remove for servicing and reduces likelihood of damage, but also makes the extruder easy to misalign. 3D party extruder assemblies exist